Most high-end geared heads (Arca-Swiss, Linhof, etc), have an integrated Z-axis (panning) control built in to the top clamp. The idea is that you can use the X and Y controls to level the head and then as the last step pan the (leveled) camera for precise composition. The problem is that on most I've used (except the Linhof Micro 3D), the panning isn't itself precisely level! It often tilts slightly as you rotate the camera, negating the whole point of geared X/Y controls in the first place.

The Rogeti fixes this by having separate panning modules that you can use (or not), and which are built to stay precisely level throughout their rotation. If you don't use panning module, then the camera is fixed pointing straight ahead (this also saves a bit of volume and weight) Or you can insert either a free-turning or a geared panning module between the camera and the top of the head. It's a nice system, and very precisely built.

The downside is that Rogeti decided to "improve" on the standard Arca-Swiss dovetail plate by including a vertical locking pin in the middle of the edge of the plate. I can see the advantage to this as a clean-slate design, but it means that while their clamp is backwards-compatible with existing plates, their plates can only be used with their clamps. And that means that the panning modules only fit on the Rogeti head, which is an annoying limitation.

Anyway, if you're considering a geared tripod head (and if you want to do precise architectural work, you probably need one), the Rogeti is worth a look. B&H sells the head itself, but the panning modules seem to only be available directly from the factory (meaning a couple weeks of shipping time from China).

Another quirk: the one of the bubble levels in mine is a bit off. This is a common problem, and why I never trust the levels in the head - I only make adjustments based on the levels directly on the camera body.

Anyway, for precision work, the Rogeti is more usable than any of the Arca-Swiss heads I've used. Only the Linhof Micro 3D (more expensive and with a more limited range of movement) does better, at least among heads I've used.

Neglected to include links:

Rogeti: https://rogeti.com/products/rg1

Linhof: https://linhof.com/en/3d-micro/

Arca: https://arca-swiss-usa.com/products/c1-cube-geared-tripod-head

Disclaimer: I bought, borrowed, or rented everything discussed here, with my own damn money, not vendor freebies. Don't bother liking or subscribing to my youtube channel, because I don't have one. And my links are just links, not "affiliate" advertising.

I don't even have cookies on my own web site. It's not necessary to monetize every human interaction.

All that is predicated on my process for composing geometrically precise architectural photos (zero or single point perspective), which is roughly:

1. Find a good view of the subject and put the tripod there (Google street view is often helpful for preparation).

2. Use the LOWER pan control to aim the camera approximately toward the subject.

3. Use the X and Y controls to level the camera, using spirit levels on the camera body. This should make vertical lines on the subject vertical.

...

...

4. Use the TOP pan to rotate the camera parallel to the main face of the subject, until horizontal lines on that face of the subject appear horizontal.

5. Use shift on the camera to compose the final framing.

6. Finally, at long last, capture the image exposure at an opportune moment.

Note that most lenses have some geometric distortion, especially toward the edge of the circle. You can correct that in post, but in the view, it's best to use the center of the frame to check geometry.

So, basically, what I generally do is work from the bottom tripod and camera controls toward the top, in a way that avoids needing to re-adjust controls once I've properly set them.

Anyway, all this should help explain why I'm somewhat obsessed with optimizing my tripod and tripod head setup. It's what I'm interacting with most closely when I'm actually making a photo, even more than the camera and lenses, and it's the stuff for which errors are often very hard to correct after you've made the exposure.

It's also why I'm impossibly slow and annoying to be around when I'm making pictures.